Choryang, in the gu (district) of Dong, was first established by refugees who fled here during the Korean War. These displaced families just kept adding small dwellings to the hill until it was completely covered and became a community of its own.

The name of its main road, Ibagu-gil, means “Story Way” in the local Gyeongsang dialect. Exhibits on the Gallery Wall along the way show the history of this still humble-looking area.

The road takes you inland from Busan Station, near the Port of Busan, and up the hill. The mountain village of Choryang’s most famous attraction is the 168 Stairs. This narrow and steep staircase takes you from sea level all the way up to Sanbok-doro (Mountainside Road).

It’s a big climb with as many steps as its name suggests, so bring bottled water and wear good shoes. Those who can’t climb as high can cheat a little and take the monorail up. As you can imagine, this relatively new addition to the streetscape was welcomed by the locals and tourists alike.

This vista and the end of the 168 Stairs is especially romantic at night when the city’s skyline and bridges are lit up by thousands of lights.

After walking the 168 Stairs back down at your leisure, browse the Choryang Ibagu Night Market for street food from the South Korean, Japanese and Taiwanese cultures. This market is held each evening at the Choryang Traditional Market. If you are visiting by day, have a picnic in Busan Jungang Park instead.

The port is home to a wide range of seafood restaurants that cater for all budgets. Order sushi rolls, sashimi dishes, scallion pancakes or grilled clams or find a place that offers an all-you-can eat buffet.

The high-speed KTX train connects the capital Seoul to nearby Busan Station, from where you should take exit 7 to get there fastest. If you arrive via the Busan Port International Passenger Terminal, it’s best to take a taxi.