蘇馬克區域保護區

BACK TO THE CAVE MAN
Story and pics by Ian Smith
I’m meeting Gerry today, a 65 year old Tasmanian who’s seen most of the island state, way more than I’ll ever cover in a lifetime.  I’m tagging along with him to Julius Creek, a semi-obscure destination that he wants to return to – and who am I to argue?  It’s mildly famous among the bushwalking fraternity because it has caves so I’m expecting to be in a dark place sometime in the ensuing hours.
We’re somewhat tardy in heading out and I’m not sure exactly what we’ll be doing other than the caves, I’m just happy to have a guide.  Our first stop is Edith Creek general store/café/service station – you name it they’ll have a go.  In fact, talking to one of the owners later, he’s managed to start a profitable business utilizing the wood that the forestry company doesn’t want, finding many uses for the initially rejected timber.
Gerry however, is taking me to what the tourist image of the fabled Tarkine is, pristine Gondwana forest swathed in lichen and moss.  There’s a new loop road not far from Edith Creek.  Actually, it’s not new, but the sealing of it and promotion as a tourist destination is.  Where Gerry’s taking me will not be on any serious promoter’s list in the foreseeable future though; I figure that out as we turn off one road onto another, then another and it’s a dirt road in the midst of becoming overgrown by forest with grasses and reedy-type plants as high as the bonnet running down the middle.
For some unknown reason I thought we were headed to a less obscure destination but here, the only way you know you’ve arrived is if you happen to spot the one lone piece of pink ribbon affixed to small branch.  Had Gerry not mentioned it I’d have driven right by but there’s also a slightly wide part of the road, so called, where, after several backwards and forwards motions, you can actually turn around, which is just as well because I wouldn’t fancy reversing up our route.
This walk is as close to virgin as you can get; the track, such as it is, can only be followed if you keep your eyes out for the ribbons because there’s little wear and tear in some places, especially where a log has fallen down and alternate routes have been sought.  This is wilderness in it truest form and we make our way down and across a small watercourse, so obscure you can walk across it and not get the top of your shoes wet.
Fungi and moss love it down here beneath the tertiary growth of this forest plus tree ferns and there’s also some large leaved plant with fruit that look just like blueberries scattered liberally across the forest floor.  Gerry reliably informs me that they’re Tasmanian native pepper and I later look it up and see that it has attracted interest in medical research because it retards growth of Staph Aureus and other nasties.
(continued)
BACK TO THE CAVE MAN
Story and pics by Ian Smith
I’m meeting Gerry today, a 65 year old Tasmanian who’s seen most of the island state, way more than I’ll ever cover in a lifetime.  I’m tagging along with him to Julius Creek, a semi-obscure destination that he wants to return to – and who am I to argue?  It’s mildly famous among the bushwalking fraternity because it has caves so I’m expecting to be in a dark place sometime in the ensuing hours.
We’re somewhat tardy in heading out and I’m not sure exactly what we’ll be doing other than the caves, I’m just happy to have a guide.  Our first stop is Edith Creek general store/café/service station – you name it they’ll have a go.  In fact, talking to one of the owners later, he’s managed to start a profitable business utilizing the wood that the forestry company doesn’t want, finding many uses for the initially rejected timber.
Gerry however, is taking me to what the tourist image of the fabled Tarkine is, pristine Gondwana forest swathed in lichen and moss.  There’s a new loop road not far from Edith Creek.  Actually, it’s not new, but the sealing of it and promotion as a tourist destination is.  Where Gerry’s taking me will not be on any serious promoter’s list in the foreseeable future though; I figure that out as we turn off one road onto another, then another and it’s a dirt road in the midst of becoming overgrown by forest with grasses and reedy-type plants as high as the bonnet running down the middle.
For some unknown reason I thought we were headed to a less obscure destination but here, the only way you know you’ve arrived is if you happen to spot the one lone piece of pink ribbon affixed to small branch.  Had Gerry not mentioned it I’d have driven right by but there’s also a slightly wide part of the road, so called, where, after several backwards and forwards motions, you can actually turn around, which is just as well because I wouldn’t fancy reversing up our route.
This walk is as close to virgin as you can get; the track, such as it is, can only be followed if you keep your eyes out for the ribbons because there’s little wear and tear in some places, especially where a log has fallen down and alternate routes have been sought.  This is wilderness in it truest form and we make our way down and across a small watercourse, so obscure you can walk across it and not get the top of your shoes wet.
Fungi and moss love it down here beneath the tertiary growth of this forest plus tree ferns and there’s also some large leaved plant with fruit that look just like blueberries scattered liberally across the forest floor.  Gerry reliably informs me that they’re Tasmanian native pepper and I later look it up and see that it has attracted interest in medical research because it retards growth of Staph Aureus and other nasties.
(continued)
(continued)
It’s almost sad to be leaving, though that is pushed into the background at the thought of seeing the exposures later on.  Gerry is now taking me to the Julius River Conservation Reserve, a more tourist oriented track with toilets no less.  It’s the same river, just further upstream.
Once there, there’s an easy-to-follow half hour stroll through more forest, crossing the water twice via well-made bridges.  It’s a relief in one way not to have to scramble somewhere as I have in previous days and earlier this day.  Normal walking is not something I’ve done in a forest for some time.
I get off on manferns (dicksonia antarctica), locating a couple growing out horizontally over the river that have much appeal and can’t stop taking pictures for five minutes.  I remember one at Horseshoe Falls in Mount Field National Park that someone had photographed well and I was trying to emulate that shot.
There’s much to recommend this half hour stroll through the woods; it’s pretty, it’s civilized, but you still get that wilderness feeling.


熱門景點


熱門蘇馬克區域保護區飯店優惠

亞瑟河 Spa 小屋飯店

亞瑟河 Spa 小屋飯店

3.5 out of 5
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日落假日別墅飯店

日落假日別墅飯店

3.5 out of 5
23 Gardiner Street Arthur River TAS
日落假日別墅飯店
優雅 Spa 小屋飯店

優雅 Spa 小屋飯店

3.5 out of 5
33 Gibson Street Smithton TAS
優雅 Spa 小屋飯店
郵政局長旅館民宿

郵政局長旅館民宿

3.5 out of 5
10 Smith Street Smithton TAS
郵政局長旅館民宿
簡單幸福飯店

簡單幸福飯店

3 out of 5
121 Emmett Street Smithton TAS
簡單幸福飯店
史坦利 BIG4 塔斯馬尼亞 Getaway 公園

史坦利 BIG4 塔斯馬尼亞 Getaway 公園

3 out of 5
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史坦利 BIG4 塔斯馬尼亞 Getaway 公園
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斯坦利海景飯店

3.5 out of 5
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斯坦利海景飯店
史丹利景觀海灘別墅飯店

史丹利景觀海灘別墅飯店

3.5 out of 5
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史丹利景觀海灘別墅飯店
Corinna Wilderness Village 度假村

Corinna Wilderness Village 度假村

3 out of 5
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最低每晚價格是根據過去 24 小時以 2 位成人住宿 1 晚為條件所搜尋到的價格。價格和供應情況可能會有所變動。可能另外有其他條件限制。