The Church of St.-Michel-des-Lions, with its 200 foot tall (65 meter) bell tower, is a splendid example of Limousin religious architecture. Let the sight of the peaked tower guide you as you wander through the streets until you arrive at the cobbled square before the entrance.
Linger in the square, admiring the stonework of the reclining Roman lions that give the church its name. Their presence once demarcated the limits of the jurisdiction of the Bishop of Limoges.
Sip a coffee from one of the cafés as you look at the statue of St. Martial in its prominent position. Squint up at the mosaic above the door, a colorful intrusion on the otherwise sombre façade. Enter via the portal at the base of the bell tower, pass through two foyers and let your vision open up to the peaked beams inside.
Sit in a pew and watch as the light streaming through the stained glass creates colored patterns on the stonework inside. Notice the slight angle of the delicate columns, warped by ages of holding up the magisterial ceiling.
Walk to the carved stone altar, behind which are concealed the relics of St. Martial. These are brought out every 7 years for a special festival that attracts up to 100,000 visitors. Ponder the walls, where it’s said yet more saints are concealed, lending the church its holy power.
The Church of St.-Michel-des-Lions is in Limoges Old Town, a 17-minute trip on foot from the train station. Walk here in 15 minutes from the St.-Étienne Cathedral. A parking garage is available one block away, though Limoges is best toured on foot.
Visit the church any day for a suggested donation. Organize a group tour through the Tourism Office, a 10-minute walk away on Boulevard de Fleurus.
